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Physical Oceanography of Continental Shelves
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Format:
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Publication Date: 12 September 2023
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ISBN: 9780691236452
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Pages: 272
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Imprint: Princeton University Press

An authoritative graduate textbook and professional reference on the physical dynamics of the coastal ocean
This book provides an up-to-date, systematic treatment of the processes governing the velocity, pressure, temperature, and salinity of the coastal ocean. Written by a leading expert with decades of experience with theory, observations, and numerical models, it builds on the idea that knowledge of fundamental phenomena allows for an understanding of continental shelf waters globally. Featuring a wealth of ocean observations from a wide variety of locales, Physical Oceanography of Continental Shelves is an essential resource for both students and researchers on this critical region of the world’s oceans.
- Covers the physical dynamics and properties of the coastal ocean, synthesizing theory and global observations
- Topics include turbulent boundary layers, wind driving, coastal-trapped waves, the inner shelf, tides, buoyancy currents, instabilities, and connections with the deep open ocean
- Ideal for graduate students in physical oceanography
- Includes exercises to strengthen understanding and draws on the author’s experience teaching the subject
- A must for oceanographers and engineers seeking a comprehensive synthesis of continental shelf processes
- Preface
- Table of Consistently Used Symbols
- Maps
- 1 Introduction
- 1.1. What Does “Coastal” Mean?
- 1.2. Why Is the Coastal Ocean Important?
- 1.3. What Makes the Coastal Ocean Different?
- 1.4. The Common Theme: Cross-Shelf Exchange
- 2 Some Basic Concepts
- 2.1. Introduction
- 2.2. The Setting
- 2.3. Turbulence
- 2.4. Some Frequently Used Approximations
- 2.5. Evaluating Ocean Observations
- 3 Boundary Layers
- 3.1. Introduction: Where the Ocean Meets the Atmosphere and the Bottom
- 3.2. Some Simple Results: Surface Boundary Layer
- 3.3. Some Simple Results: Bottom Boundary Layer
- 3.4. Ekman Compatibility Condition
- 3.5. The Surface Mixed Layer
- 3.6. The Bottom Boundary Layer with a Flat Bottom
- 3.7. The Bottom Boundary Layer with a Sloping Bottom
- 3.8. Conclusion
- 4 Two-Dimensional Models of Wind Forcing
- 4.1. Introduction: Coastal Upwelling
- 4.2. Governing Equations for a Barotropic Ocean
- 4.3. Midshelf Response to Wind Forcing
- 4.4. Inclusion of Moderate Density Stratification
- 4.5. An Extreme Idealization
- 4.6. Nonlinear Effects
- 4.7. Conclusion
- 5 Waves in the Coastal Ocean
- 5.1. Introduction: Responses to Distant Forcings
- 5.2. An Unbounded, Rotating, Homogeneous, Flat-Bottom Ocean
- 5.3. A Rotating, Homogeneous, Flat-Bottom Ocean with a Coastal Wall
- 5.4. Including Density Stratification with a Flat Bottom
- 5.5. Barotropic Waves over Shelf-Slope Topography
- Edge Waves
- Continental Shelf Waves
- 5.6. Coastal-Trapped Waves with Stratification and Shelf-Slope Topography
- 5.7. The Coastal Long-Wave Approximation and Wind Forcing
- 5.8. Solving for Large-Scale, Wind-Forced Motions
- 5.9. Some Coastal-Trapped Wave Applications
- Hindcasts
- Stochastic Models
- Tides on the Shelf
- 5.10. Circular Geometries
- 5.11. The Steady Barotropic Limit
- 5.12. Superinertial Motions: What the Coastal Long-Wave Approximation Misses
- 5.13. Conclusion
- 6 The Inner Shelf
- 6.1. Introduction: Where Surface and Bottom Conditions Interact
- 6.2. Boundary Layers in Shallow Water
- 6.3. Non-Hydrostatic Gravity Waves
- 6.4. Wind and Wave Forcing
- 6.5. Cross-Shelf Transport on the Inner Shelf
- 6.6. Perspective
- 7 Tides in the Coastal Ocean
- 7.1. Introduction: Continual Forcing and Responses
- 7.2. Background: Forcing and Frequencies
- 7.3. Generation of Tides on the Shelf
- 7.4. Tidal Rectification
- 7.5. Tidal Mixing and Fronts
- 7.6. Internal Tides
- 7.7. Topographic Effects
- 7.8. Conclusion
- 8 Freshwater Outflows
- 8.1. Introduction: Where Runoff from Land Encounters the Ocean
- 8.2. Estuaries
- 8.3. Generating an Alongshore Flow; the Bulge
- 8.4. The Buoyancy Current
- 8.5. Wind Forcing
- 8.6. Turning It Upside Down: Negative Buoyancy
- 8.7. Conclusion
- 9 Instabilities
- 9.1. Introduction: Growth of Disorder over the Shelf
- 9.2. A Framework
- 9.3. Coastal Upwelling Front
- 9.4. Other Wind-Driven Cases
- 9.5. Shelf Break Front
- 9.6. Buoyancy Currents
- 9.7. Western Boundary Currents
- 9.8. Wintertime Cooling
- 9.9. Tidal Mixing Fronts
- 9.10. Surf Zone
- 9.11. Conclusion
- 10 Relation to the Open Ocean
- 10.1. Introduction: Constraints on Shelf-Ocean Coupling
- 10.2. Time-Dependent Processes
- Tides and Higher Frequencies
- Equatorial Processes
- Midlatitudes
- 10.3. Frictional Effects
- 10.4. Nonlinearities
- 10.5. Sea Level and Climate Change
- 10.6. Conclusion
- 11 Perspective
- 11.1. Introduction
- 11.2. Observational Capabilities
- 11.3. Dynamical Concepts
- 11.4. Numerical Models
- 11.5. Processes
- Appendix
- Exercises
- Glossary
- References
- Index