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The first volume of six comprising all aspects of patternmaking for womenswear, this book is a comprehensive approach to the fundamentals of flat-pattern drafting for skirts in all their variations and forms.
This book contains the perfect method for creating skirts, explained in a simple, clear, precise, highly detailed manner. It covers the information necessary for drafting flat patterns for just about every style there is, and can easily be adapted to all skill levels. Flat-pattern drafting is the process of creating volume from a 2-D surface by outlining a pattern on paper, using specific body measurements to which ease is added according to the desired look of the garment. Developed by fashion designer and teacher Dominique Pellen after countless years of experience in the studio and in the classroom, the method for the creation and adaptation of flat patterns contained herein is suitable for a vast audience, including professionals, students and simply anyone who loves to sew. The book has already been used at professional schools and institutes, where Pellen’s method has proven to be reliable and foolproof. This expanded and updated volume on skirts is the first in a series of guides that will explore the exciting world of garment-making, a gateway that is designed to help clothiers understand and design patterns on their own.
Passionate about the arts, Dominique Pellen began his career with studies in drawing and painting, focusing his artistic career on fashion illustration, design and patternmaking. He has alternated collaborations with different international couturiers and brands with consulting, teaching and lectures on styling, design and patternmaking at one of the world's most respected fashion institutions, the exclusive Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (the Haute Couture Trade Association of Paris, France, whose members include most emblematic brands, such as Dior, Lanvin, Balmain, Mandel and Anne Valérie Hash), known today as the Institut Français de la Mode.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Glossary
List of supplies
Measurement chart
Basic principles for making an outline
Placing tape on the dummy
SKIRTS
Taking measurements for skirt making base patterns
Skirt with two front darts and two back darts
Dart value chart for skirts with two back darts
Designating darts on the skirt base
Pencil and flared skirts
Skirt with two front darts and one back dart
Dart value chart for the skirt with one back dart
High-waisted skirt
The full skirt (flared)
Skirts with yokes and godets
Four-panel skirt
Six-panel skirt
Eight-panel skirt
Ten-panel skirt
Radius value chart for circular skirts
Quarter-circle skirt
Half-circle skirt
Three-quarter circle skirt
Full-circle skirt
Wraparound skirt with a back yoke and knife pleats
Culottes
POCKETS AND DETAILS
Slanted side pocket
Welt pocket
Patch pocket
Western pocket
Straight and shaped waistbands
Edge to edge slit for the skirt (luxury)