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Veteran food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan opens the world of Hakka cooking to Western audiences in this fascinating chronicle that traces the rustic cuisine to its roots in a history of multiple migrations. Beginning in her grandmother’s kitchen in California, Anusasananan travels to her family’s home in China, and from there fans out to embrace Hakka cooking across the globe—including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, Peru, and beyond. More than thirty home cooks and chefs share their experiences of the Hakka diaspora as they contribute over 140 recipes for everyday Chinese comfort food as well as more elaborate festive specialties.
This book likens Hakka cooking to a nomadic type of “soul food,” or a hearty cooking tradition that responds to a shared history of hardship and oppression. Earthy, honest, and robust, it reflects the diversity of the estimated 75 million Hakka living in China and greater Asia, and in scattered communities around the world—yet still retains a core flavor and technique. Anusasananan’s deep personal connection to the tradition, together with her extensive experience testing and developing recipes, make this book both an intimate journey of discovery and an exciting introduction to a vibrant cuisine.
This book likens Hakka cooking to a nomadic type of “soul food,” or a hearty cooking tradition that responds to a shared history of hardship and oppression. Earthy, honest, and robust, it reflects the diversity of the estimated 75 million Hakka living in China and greater Asia, and in scattered communities around the world—yet still retains a core flavor and technique. Anusasananan’s deep personal connection to the tradition, together with her extensive experience testing and developing recipes, make this book both an intimate journey of discovery and an exciting introduction to a vibrant cuisine.
Price: $39.95
Pages: 312
Publisher: University of California Press
Imprint: University of California Press
Publication Date:
08 October 2012
Trim Size: 9.00 X 7.00 in
ISBN: 9780520273283
Format: Hardcover
BISACs:
“If you had to define Hakka fare in a few words, you could say that it's a form of Chinese peasant food. You wouldn't be doing it justice, though. . . . Northern California-born Linda Lau Anusasananan explores her heritage through cooking. The result is more than a collection of recipes; it is a chronicle of the effects of diaspora and assimilation as reflected on the plate. . . . Covering classic dishes like salt-baked chicken, pork belly with mustard greens and stuffed tofu, she also looks at how these foods have evolved in different locales. Newer inventions—tangra masala beef from India, stuffed bitter melon in tomato sauce from Trinidad, a goat stew with preserved lime sauce from Jamaica—offer lessons in innovative adaptation and a chance to sample untried flavor thrills.”
Linda Lau Anusasananann was recipe editor and food writer for Sunset Magazine for 34 years. She also served as a special consultant to cookbooks such as Sunset Chinese, Sunset Oriental, Sunset Wok, Sunset Seafood, and Sunset Pasta. She was the president of the Association of Chinese Cooking Teachers and president of the San Francisco Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. Artist Alan Lau wrote and illustrated Blues and Greens, a Produce Worker's Journal.
Foreword by Martin Yan
List of Recipes
Acknowledgments
Notes to the Reader
Introduction
1. Popo’s Kitchen on Gold Mountain: California
2. Hakka Cooking in the Homeland: China
3. Leaving the Mainland: Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, and Mauritius
4. Across the Pacific: Peru, Hawaii, and Tahiti
5. Multiple Migrations: Toronto and New York
6. Return to Gold Mountain
The Hakka Kitchen
The Hakka Pantry
Basic Recipes
Table of Equivalents
Bibliography
Index
List of Recipes
Acknowledgments
Notes to the Reader
Introduction
1. Popo’s Kitchen on Gold Mountain: California
2. Hakka Cooking in the Homeland: China
3. Leaving the Mainland: Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, and Mauritius
4. Across the Pacific: Peru, Hawaii, and Tahiti
5. Multiple Migrations: Toronto and New York
6. Return to Gold Mountain
The Hakka Kitchen
The Hakka Pantry
Basic Recipes
Table of Equivalents
Bibliography
Index